[Edited to add: Janome Free Motion Couching Foot Part 2 and Janome Free Motion Couching Foot Review Part 3 of 3, plus the videos of Free Motion Couching Foot Review. I'll post my results in the next few days! Leslie's most recent post was also about doing some free motion couching. So far my main thought about this foot, which comes with two 'toes' for differing diameters of yarn, is why didn't they make it comaptible with the super-awesome convertible free motion quilting set? Maybe that's in the works?įor more information about free motion couching, go check out the older posts above, and Leslie's blog too. I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but I should this weekend. I jumped on that foot like a starving dog on a ham bone! While talking about the kind of sewing I do, the lovely Swiss accented proprieter mentioned the new foot from Janome that allows you to attach yarn or cord in free motion. On Wednesday, I visited a wonderful sewing machine shop that carries Bernina, Janome and Elna machines in Roanoke VA called Alpine Sewing Machine Co. I posted about creating a free motion couching foot for my Janome also, since there was no foot like the Bernina's for my machine. I hope I can get the videos loaded and posted for you in the next couple of days!īack in July of 2011 I wrote several posts on free motion couching, inspired by Leslie at MarveLes Art Studio and the wonderful free motion couching foot she had for her Bernina. I would most definitely not choose the couching foot over the entire convertible FMQ foot set! If I had to choose between hacking the plastic foot of the convertible FMQ foot set or getting the FM couching foot I would hack the foot. Since it cannot handle small diameter yarns and I would love, love, love to FM couch Superior Thread's Razzle Dazzle, I may re-hack my hacked foot to use for finer yarns. The foot performed much better with the larger diameter yarn, though still not perfectly.īottom line? No, not the thread, rather the verdict of this review: The foot certainly has some serious design issues that could be improved upon, but it has earned a place in my tool kit of creativity (especially since it's an hour and a half drive to return the foot). You can see photos of the two stitchouts with the FM couching foot here. Then I switched back to the FM couching foot and used a heavier yarn, still with the smallest diameter holed foot. The Bottom Line disappeared quite nicely into the fluff of the yarn. I did not want to complicate this test drive (no matter how slightly) with using the monopoly. I used Superior Thread's Bottom Line thread, top and bottom in a cream color. I had to reset my machine to a straight stitch first I nearly forgot! And proceeded to couch this yarn much better, though still not perfectly.īefore I forget, Vivian, asked in the previous post what thread was I using. I then switched to the convertible FMQ foot set and couched this same yarn with my "hacked" FMQ couching foot. You can see there's quite a bit of room, both in the hole around the yarn and under the foot. So until I get the formatting issues resolved, this is the last picture I have for now. Shortly after I took the above picture, I started shooting video.
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In the Empire Divided campaign, the province detail tab now displays a banditry bar which increases as your empire grows. Bread roaming marauders now scour the lands, looking to raid minor settlements and trade routes. Learn about the new campaign features coming in the Empire Divided DLC for Total War: ROME II with this handy guide.īanditry is on the rise, as the authority over roman lands have diminished in recent years. Lastly, the Britannic Celts are comprised of the Caledoni, posses the "Heroic Culture" and "Sacred Springs" traits, granting them a 20% charge bonus for all units and +6 sanitation to all provinces respectively.Įach of these factions also posses their own unique traits, such as the Saxoni who benefit from the "Voyagers" trait giving them an additional 20% movement range for any fleets they own. 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I try to keep the puppets easily editable and modular so I can re-use them or parts of them for multiple scenes. When I'm developing rigs, I typically create one 'general purpose' rig for a character that's capable of most common poses and actions, and I may also create simpler 'special' puppets that only do shot-specific poses and animation. Fortunately, Moho handles both types of art perfectly! It's also not unusual for my puppets to be a hybrid of vector and bitmap art. Sometimes this means drawing everything with Moho's vector tools and sometimes I'm creating the art in a paint program like Photoshop, Procreate, or Krita. I'm lumping both Production and Post Production together because these stages always overlap.įirst comes building the puppets. (Both programs are free.) The X-sheet contains useful info about each scene, and a column to mark the status of each scene as it gets completed. (For me, this is frame accurate and plays more efficiently in an animation program.)įinally, I'll break down every scene to an x-sheet (aka, dope sheet.) I like to use Google Sheets or LibreOffice for this. Some animators like to render movie files for animation reference, but I prefer low res JPEG frames, and. Once I'm happy with the animatic, I'll render a movie I can use for editorial reference, and I'll also output each scene as a separate clip for animation reference. The editorial program I use at home is Vegas Pro but any editor should work fine. (An animatic is the storyboard with scene timing and sound, and it serves as the blueprint for your film.) For sound fx and music, a temp track is fine for dialog, I like to have final audio if possible, because I'll need it to animate lip sync. Next, I cut the storyboard with audio into an animatic using a video editor. If the project starts to look too difficult, I'll simplify the storyboard so the project is doable. After I have the storyboard drawn, I'll figure out what I need to animate scenes. My workflow for personal projects isn't that different from what you described.ĭevelop concept, sketches and designs, write the script and make a storyboard. Thanks for sharing your workflow! It's always interesting and educational to hear how people work and use their software. I hope more people get to share here, hoping I can learn a thing or two from how you do things! I apply only the most minimal effects (most of them usually lighting tweaks, some noise, the occasional blur - but it means that I separated layers properly in Moho), and so on. In post-producion I export my completed animation scenes to Adobe Aftereffects. Sometimes, I buy audio, but this doesn't happen very often. I do audio recording in Audacity and also get sound assets from. I also draw my background assets in Procreate, FYI. When the rigs are complete, I like to back up all the files to the cloud. Then again, my animations typically don't rely on a lot of action. I'm really elated to see more and more 360-degree turns in the community, but that often tends to be cognitively expensive for me, so I tend to fake it with half-turns, thereby limiting the range of motion for my characters. Rigging is another long process, so I like to spend a few weeks of work just rigging characters and not doing much else. Once this is done, I'm now ready to rig with Moho. I love to do all of these on my iPad using Procreate. As soon as I have the basic storyboard done and character sketches complete, I begin the arduous task of translating the sketches into character style sheets. Needless to say this is preceded by the script-writing (which I used to write on Amazon Story Writer, which has now been discontinued). I love to spend a lot of time with pen and paper at this stage, so I do a lot of my character sketches on paper, and sometimes the storyboarding too. 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The reason I am posting this is I found one today (Remington Repeating Shotgun) serial number is U on top of serial number and 11145 underneath the U. Here is the thread above with Researchers photos. Most average used Model 10 "Standard" Grades sell for $150 or less. There is virtually no interest or market demand for these old pumps unless in absolute mint condition or one of the higher grade engraved grades. The guns are fine as long as they work, but there doesn't seem to be anyone left alive who can make one right once it gets out of whack. So, your gun is very likely from the Remington Arms - Union Metallic Cartridge Co. U was a Remington "stock letter" for this pump gun. The old factory ledger from Ilion that was started with the resumption of civilian arms production after WW-I, shows the first entry for Model 10 had reached serial number 172939 on Sept. In 1920, the company name was changed again to Remington Arms Co., Inc. During WW-I time the company name got Inc. In 1911, Marcellus Hartley Dodge combined his arms and his ammunition companies as Remington Arms - Union Metallic Cartridge Co., and the gun became known as the Model No. catalogue as the "Remington Repeating Shotgun" - In the February 15, 1910, Remington price list the gun is called the Model 1908. The shotgun that came to be known as the Remington Model 10 was introduced in the 1908-09 Remington Arms Co. Researcher01 Post subject: Re: Remington Model 10, value and info? In some cases if the damage is caught early enough a chamber iron can be used to push the damaged material back into position.ĭo nothing or sell at the next gun show are also options, but not the ones I would pick.I found this information in the Value and ID section and wanted to post it here in the Remington Forum. The fact that the 12 is pump action with lots of parts mounted to the bottom of the barrel will also complicate this option. The design of the barrel mounting will play a big factor in how easy it is to do. Not the first choice on a collectors piece, but this sounds like the other end of the market. If you have the machine tools and time to modify the barrel stub this can work. The welder needs to know his stuff and do a clean job. This is the sort of thing we consider on a 22 RF, but not a larger caliber. Line the barrel and re-chamber – common fix on older 22’s and easy to do in the home shop, but may be a bit tricky on this model as stated in a previous post I think they offered replacements at one time. Re-barrel – that means scrounging up a replacement barrel. The up side is you can’t go very far wrong where value is concerned. The down side is, no return on investment if you repair and sell. The model 12 Remington is a neat little pump action 22 as I recall.īased on the condition you describe the gun has minimal value on the collectors market. Ok, you have a beat up old 22 with firing pin damage to the chamber, rather common question. Thank you for any advice on repair or barrel availability. Is there any practical way to repair this? I like the rifle because it is small and light weight plus it has sentimental value.I would even replace the barrel if I could find one in decent shape.Would a hexagon barrel interchange with the round version? The firing pin has gouged a burr into the top of the the outer edge of the chamber where the rim would normally seat is corroded leaving very little support for the rim on the bullet. I have an old model 12 Remington 22 rifle which belonged to my dad.It shoots 22 short long or long rifle.Last patent date on it is 1912.It has the round barrel with a ser# of 542xxx.It is marked RW above the serial number.The butt plate is marked Winchester (!)ĭad picked it up years ago.The rifle has very little finish left.In fact it appears to have been fairly rusty at one time and someone cleaned it up.probably was stored in the barn loft after some kid shot the neighbors dog. Click to download: Download autocad architecture 2013 64 bit crack torrent. the link to download it later on your PC or Mac. These are official offline installer for AutoCAD 2014 download. Autodesk AutoCAD Raster Design 2012 (x86/圆4). This is official AutoCAD 2014 setup installer. This installer setup will automatically install 32 bit or 64 Bit setup for AutoCAD 2014 in your computer. 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